I love the end of September. I love the way we seem to be hovering between summer and fall: Cool mornings and sunny afternoons, the crisp smell of colder weather in the air, but no need to pull the jacket out of the closet just yet, and still plenty of zucchini at the farmers’ market, right alongside the first of the winter squashes. As much as the harsh New England winters made me hate the cold, I have to admit I love sweaters and casseroles and big pots of chili, and someday, I swear, I’ll have a fireplace, and I’ll probably light fires in it at the first sign of the inkling of a frost.
This gratin is tailor made for this time of year: It is super comfort food, but isn’t so heavy you’ll need to lie prostrate on the couch after eating it. And it combines winter squash and summer squash in perfect balance, just like late September.
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