bread – The Kitchen Illiterate

Grandma Joan’s Banana Bread

Bananas don’t usually last long enough in this house to make it to banana bread. But a few weeks ago, we were having dinner with my friend Eunice and I happened to glance into her freezer and see piles and piles of frozen, perfectly browned bananas. She sighed that she never had time to do anything with them, so I offered to take a few off her hands. I love banana bread because it’s another one of those baked goods that I can pretend is healthy. Because, hey, fruit!
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Saturday Morning, Coconut Muffins

I know that I’m emerging from whatever dark lull I’ve been sunk in when I wake up on a Saturday morning with an urge to bake. Before I even finish my coffee I’m pulling bins of flour and sugar out of cupboards and scattering mixing bowls and measuring spoons over the counters. Sean ambles out of bed and marvels at the mess I’ve been able to make before 9 am. I’m mixing and stirring and whisking and happily anticipating a warm, sweet breakfast. There’s something wonderful about early morning baking: The feeling of productivity first thing in the morning, sipping coffee in between breaking eggs, and watching the room become lighter as the sun rises higher in the sky.
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Poor Man’s Brioche

Brioche is the gold standard of bread. It’s incredibly tender crust and rich, buttery flavor purportedly lost Marie Antoinette her head when she callously prescribed it to her starving countrymen: It’s richness was so far out of their reach that their only possible reaction was revolution. I think they really just wanted the brioche.

I’ve avoided making it until recently because I’ve heard that in order to get that flaky, tender crumb, you have to stir and knead forever, and my little weakling arms just were not up for that. One of the first things I thought of as I unpacked the shiny new stand mixer was that I could finally give brioche a try. Good timing, too, because it was quickly approaching in my quest to bake every bread in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice.
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Homemade Bagels

A few months ago I decided to try to bake my way through Peter Reinhardt’s The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. I am far from the first person to try this, and I’m willing to bet I’m not the first person who got hung up only a few recipes in by the bagels. They seemed so…daunting. People get really intense about bagels. There are long-standing arguments about what kinds of bagels are the best, and how to cook them so they are more authentic, and I wasn’t sure I was ready to jump into the fray. But last weekend, I finally decided enough was enough. And I discovered that bagels are actually pretty easy, and unlike my English muffin experience of a few weeks ago, they turned out awesome. Sure, maybe a real New Yorker would shun my bagels, but out here in Walla Walla, where beggars perhaps cannot be choosers, I am awfully glad to have this recipe in my arsenal.
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Pain de campagne

I usually try to make my weekly loaf of bread pretty simple. I will occasionally splurge on something like Greek Celebration Bread or Peanut Butter Bread, but usually, it’s just flour, water, salt, and yeast. Lately, though, I’ve been getting a little bored, and the shiny new mixer has been prompting me to experiment with some new recipes. I have about forty-seven bread cookbooks, so those recipes certainly aren’t hard to come by, but I have to tell you, I’ve already discovered a new favorite. And who knew all it took to make me swoon, bread-wise, was a little butter?
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Bacon and Aged Gouda Scones

Update! Doh, I forgot that I added mustard powder to the recipe, as well. Subtle, but a nice touch.

I woke up last Saturday morning several hours later than my usual rising time with a serious hunger. Unfortunately, we had no bread in the house, and I don’t consider breakfast at all satisfying without bread. So I turned to Mr. X and asked, “Should I bake English muffins or scones for breakfast?” And he did the only thing he could do: He laughed at me. My Saturday morning proposal pretty much encapsulates me at my most ridiculous: Rather than settling for a sub-par breakfast, I will gladly satiate my hunger pangs temporarily with a small handful of chips while I embark on an elaborate cooking project.

As you can see, I decided on the scones. And these aren’t just any scones. These are light, flaky scones made with thick cut bacon and aged Gouda cheese. And they were totally worth the wait.
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Greek Celebration Bread

Crazy, but true: I have been writing this here blog for three years today. A lot has happened in three years, and not just in the kitchen. I know I’ve said it many times before, but it’s true: When I first started writing here, I really didn’t know much about cooking at all. I’d always enjoyed doing it, but my technique left much to be desired. My favorite meal was rice and beans from a box, and I was so freaked out about raw shrimp I didn’t look closely enough to see that they weren’t de-veined before cooking them. I thought baking bread from scratch was Little House on the Prairie stuff, and I didn’t have the first clue that broccoli has a season.

In celebration of three years of cooking and writing and taking pictures of food, and learning my way around an oven, I decided to splurge this week and bake this lovely Greek Celebration Bread, from Reinhardt’s The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, as my weekly breakfast loaf. And it does feel like a splurge from my usual plain, whole wheat loaf. This bread is fragrant and tender and rich and really freaking fabulous.
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Rustic Walnut Bread

For someone who bakes her own bread pretty regularly, I haven’t experimented too much with different types of bread. I usually only eat bread once a day, for breakfast, with peanut butter, so I tended to think that my options were limited to plain sourdough or wheat. But I recently read a book by Joyce Carol Oates in which the main character begins learning how to bake bread. And she bakes all kinds of different loaves, full of fruits and nuts and flavors, and I was smitten. I decided it was time to branch out, to move away from sourdough and try something new. And I just happened to open one of my bread cookbooks to a recipe for Rustic Walnut Bread, and my decision was made.
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Focaccia Mediterranea

One of my favorite things about my new life in Walla Walla is that I have plenty of time for elaborate cooking projects. I have long, lazy Saturdays and Sundays with no one to see and not very much to do, and I spend most of that time in the kitchen (or on the couch learning to crochet and watching Buffy). On weekend evenings I like to pick a recipe from one of the many cooking magazines that are taking over my house, something that looks elaborate and involves many steps, and spend a good two or three hours in the kitchen, kneading dough and roasting things and assembling and baking and then, happily, eating.

This particular piece of deliciousness, from La Cucina Italiana, took about three hours, although most of that time was spent watching a movie while I waited for dough to rise. And it was well worth the wait. The dough is easy and rolls out smoothly (though it could do with a teensy bit more flavor, which could be achieved by letting it sit in the refrigerator overnight, I suspect). Roasting peppers in my oven was an adventure, and the end product was excellent: yeasty and warm and full of flavor. Anytime you combine bread, vegetables, and cheese, I suspect it’s impossible to end up with something bad.
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My First Sourdough Bread

Several weeks ago I teased you all with mention of my newly acquired sourdough starter. I nursed it back to health, waiting patiently to make my first loaf, and of course, the day I was all set to make it I read through the instructions and realized that you have to feed a starter before you use it, so that it’s fresh and active. I fed the starter, and then unthinkingly put it back into the refrigerator, where I suspect it promptly went back to sleep, or whatever it is that sourdough does that makes it less useful. So my project was delayed. I tried to do a little research so I might have a better understanding of my starter, but the interwebs were full of conflicting information. Shocking!

Well, this past Friday I finally got around to baking my sourdough. I remembered to feed the starter Thursday evening, and let it sit near the radiator Friday morning to ensure it was fully lively and ready to go. Then I got to messy work. And you know, even though the loaf didn’t turn out as sour as I hoped (it’s not San Francisco, after all), it is easily the best loaf of bread I’ve made yet. The crust is lovely and chewy and the texture is just right, not too soft or too dense. Next week I’m definitely trying out the extra-tangy version of the recipe that came with my starter.
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