Chicken in Milk

You know when you bookmark a recipe but don’t get around to trying it for years, and when you finally do, you curse yourself for waiting so long to discover this new, most amazing meal? That’s what happened with this chicken. I saw this recipe on The Kitchn over two years ago, and Faith Durand, the woman who posted the link, was so effusive about its awesomeness I bookmarked it immediately. And then forgot about it completely.

Two weekends ago we suddenly got some very fall-like rain (and right after I got done talking up how it’s finally summer here or something) and the urge to roast a chicken and some root vegetables hit me hard. The idea of cozying up in our little apartment while that wonderful chicken-y smell surrounded us was too compelling. I headed to the market and bought a little chicken and some potatoes, and then I remembered this recipe I had bookmarked so long before. All thoughts of the Zuni-style roast chicken I had planned disappeared. I found the recipe on my phone (I love smart phones; how did I ever get along without one?), bought some milk and cinnamon sticks, and dusted off my heavy red Dutch oven. It was time to braise some chicken in milk.

I admit, the idea of braising any kind of meat in milk sounds…weird. And the braising liquid does get kind of curdy and isn’t particularly attractive. But it is so very, very delicious that I quickly decided I did not care. I even put some of those curdy sauce bits on my vegetables. I mopped them up with my salad. I picked them straight out of the pot and ate them. And the sauce isn’t even the best part: The chicken falls right off the bones, and is so juicy and tender, just faintly scented with cinnamon, it’s almost buttery, it’s so good. I never want to make chicken any other way.

I served this with simple roasted vegetables: some small, round potatoes that always remind me of smooth river rocks, and some chopped up scarlet turnip from our CSA, as well as one big carrot. I just chopped the vegetables to be the same size as the little potatoes, tossed them with some olive oil and salt, and threw them in a baking pan next to the chicken for the last 30 minutes or so of cooking. They were extra delicious with a little of that milky sauce.

Chicken in Milk
Adapted from Jamie Oliver.

• 1 two-pound chicken
• salt and pepper
• about half a stick of butter
• 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
• 2 small cinnamon sticks
• about 3 tablespoons dried oregano
• zest of 2 lemons
• 10 cloves of garlic
• 2 cups whole milk

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Season the chicken all over with salt and pepper. I used about two tablespoons of salt, and just a sprinkling of pepper. Heat a 5-quart Dutch oven over medium heat, and melt the butter with the olive oil in the pot. Once it’s melted and hot, put the chicken in, breasts up. Let the chicken cook for a few minutes, until it’s golden brown and releases easily. Use tongs to turn the chicken, breasts down, and cook for another few minutes, until the skin is golden brown. Turn the chicken a bit and cook until it’s light golden all over, then remove the chicken to a plate. Discard the oil and butter that’s left in the pan.

Put the chicken back in the pot with the cinnamon, oregano, lemon zest, garlic (leave the skins on!), and the milk. Cover the pot and put it in the oven. Let it cook for an hour and a half, or until the chicken pulls easily the bones. If you like, you can baste the chicken once or twice during cooking. My Dutch oven has one of those nifty self-basting lids, so I just left it alone and it was perfect.

Once the chicken is done, pull the meat from the bones and ladle some of the braising liquid over it. Serve with some of the garlic cloves, which are super easy to peel now that they’ve been braised. The garlic cloves will keep for a while, too, and are great in salad dressing or smeared on some baguette.

Speaking of baguettes, notice the little tray with toasts and radishes? I have never been a big fan of radish, but I’m now addicted, because I’ve discovered that butter makes everything better. Especially radishes. A bit of toasted bread, a smear of soft, salty butter, and some very thinly sliced radishes make the perfect snack. I have to say thanks to Molly at Orangette, for introducing me to this idea in her book, A Homemade Life. If you haven’t read this yet, well, who are you? And also, you should. It’s a perfectly delectable little book that makes me want to slip right into it and hang out. And eat.

If you’re facing a cool, fall-like weekend, go buy yourself a chicken and make this recipe. You’ll regret it if you wait too long.